Can You Believe Someone Actually Likes the Rain?

So it turns out Gus REALLY likes the rain. Me on the other hand, am looking forward to dry Texas days.

Dam Zebra

The weekend was packed with festivities. Friday Crank’N the Series started, Saturday the Homecoming game and dance (a 15 hour work week), but Sunday, oh Sunday. Early Sunday morning Gus and I headed down to the Valley with one goal in mind; Prowess. Upon arrival we headed over to Swan Slab for the warm-up. A few of us climbed this awesome 5.6 slab. Afterward the crazies did this dirty, sketchy, and mantel-happy highball; inspiring, but still a little crazy.

Post warm-up a few of us headed to Dogwood to cheer and spot Justin. In between burns Randy, Patty, and I took it upon ourselves to level out the horizontal pillar for all future loved ones to come, enjoy the view, cuddle, and sit PERFECTLY level.

After the Dogwood session, Justin came to the horror show that was my attempts on Prowess. Although I made some progress on the problem, reaching a new high point, getting as far as I did, I should have sent!!!! As much as I would hate to admit it, El Zebra reared his head, and as my feet once again flew toward the earth it was too late for the lion to roar.

Here’s to next weekend, sun or snow, I’ll be there!

Peter

Anyone wants some Eggs?

The drive home started out horribly. All I could think about was the pathetic climbing trip I had just been on. Over the course of nine days I climbed seven, sending only two problems, warmed up every frick’n day at camp “f’n” four, and the rain was bad enough to soak a problem that I had gotten really stoked about. All in all I was not a happy camper.

As I got closer to the rim of the valley, I stopped at a turn-out to take one last good look at Yosemite. Gus and I stepped out of the car and sat on the guardrail chill’n. After a few moments, Gus nudged my elbow and gave me look that melted my heart. Seemingly he knew exactly what to do to snap me back to reality. Yes, he’s that good!!

For the rest of the drive I thought about the fun the week possessed. From the four dogs, the shit talking, the eggs, a fantastic Thanksgiving meal, the hanging with good friends and the making of new ones; the week pulsated with fun. Over all I was inspired by those around me trying hard, be dedicated and having fun. The memory allowed me to drift back over the last two months in Yosemite, this season has started off great!!! It has made me wanting more.

How about next Sunday?

Peter, the Zebra!!

P.S. Please don’t take me off your blog. I promise to do better!

P.S.S Please return me to your blog. I like to party!

An Air Jordan Weekend

So Gus and I headed to the Valley in search of an escape from the grid. This trip was something that I had to do, and no sickness was going to get in my way. As I was driving to the unknown, about to miss my beautiful girlfriend for a month, and questioning whether it was worth going down being sick; I almost turned the car around in Stockton, after realizing that I forgot my sleeping bag. Needless to say the cards seemed to be stacked against me. However, when I did climb I sent two of my projects (in two Michael Jordan moments), Chocolate Bunny and the Unnamed Problem at Bridal Vail, form the Spring.

In addition, my friends provided me with great company and inspiration. Kevin, who flew in from Colorado for a recon mission, was inspiring on Panic Room. Justin killed on, and is getting quite close to, Yabo Roof. Shannon showed no fear on Flat Line. John got crazy on that Unnamed problem at Bridal Vail. Gus melted hearts!!! Mike and Paul chilled watching two ants sprinting up El Cap.

All in all, the weekend was awesome and made me thirsty for more. If the weather stays as good as it was, we are in for one hell of a fall.

Somthing In the Air

Me On My First Obsession of the Season

School has started, which means that when Gus gets up so do I. Our ritual has been pee outside, eat breakfast, get dressed together, and then I drink coffee outside while he chases Turtle around the woody. One cool crisp morning I was sitting in my plush camping chair sipping on my joe and this strange but familiar feeling came over me. All of sodden I was back on Justin's porch looking up at the falls, or sitting on my tailgate at the Milks, anticipating the day to come. In an instances I was psyched. I am in the process of making my goals and plans for this year's climbing. I've stepped up my training. In reading everyone's blogs as of late, one thing is clear, "psyche" is in the air. I would like to thank those of you (who deserve it) for the reading material and pics, and Kevin for coming out to Cali and bringing his enthusiasm.

Game On!!

Kevin Having Fun on Hobo Travers

Friendship

After some touch and go moments. These two have finally bonded. Looking forward to hanging with friends under boulders this fall!

Peter

Two More Summers Till 30

Gus giving new meaning to, "What was once yours is now mine!"

Headed up to the Saddle Boulder yesterday with Justin and the Dogs. It was Gus' first climbing day and he did awesome! With the heat, the smoke, and the horseflies; the conditions could not have been worse. However, the progress made on "Midnight Train" was exciting and made me thirsty for more. Watching Justin get one foot placement away from "The Real Deal," shocked me quickly back into psyche-mode after a two week hiatus. On the drive back I started to count my free days remaining. The only good news that came from it was that Fall is right around the corner. But don't talk about Falls to come with Justin it is just a tad bit depressing.

The Adventures of Caesar Augustus "Gus" Newman

My Boy; Gus!!!

Gus mid-takeoff!!

Hanging with Grandma Nan and Grandpa J

Someone's Got to Work, Just Not Me!

The summer has gotten off to a great start! Since truly being done with school responsibilities I have been to the coast, Donner, the Valley and South Lake. Not bad for only seven days. When I was in my youth I would always seemingly let summer run by me. I would get up late watch “Saved By the Bell,” eat ice cream and conjure up deals with my sister to make chocolate chip cookies daily. These days I have been trying to live up to my commitment to my own sanity. Many say that teachers have it so easy, always pointing to the fact that we get all this time off. Well, without these six weeks off in the summer you probably would be reading a news article of the teacher on trial for killing his students, rather than this pathetic excuse for a blog. But alas, you are! In the last week I have found awesome boulders at the coast, my project still within my reach, the valley climbable until 3am, it fun to climb until your tips resemble ground-chuck, and tons of great information in my puppy parenting books.

Here is to five more weeks!
Peter, Self-Sponsored Athlete

Justin Trying to Stay Awake at Fort Ross

3am in the Valley

Below Vicki Using Stave's Beta

The Snags

So I know that I have been lacking on the posts as of late, but I only have three more days of work and then it is on like Donkey Kong.

Heather on Two Face

Today, Heather, T-Rex and I made our way to the Secret Boulders for a little fun in the sun. I left the guide in the car and showed the girls the circuit. The circuit is something that I like to do when I want a little bouldering mileage. There is nothing too outstanding, just a cluster of fun problems.

T Testing Her Heel Rubber

It was a perfect day to be a little higher in elevation with temps in the 90s down in the central valley. Unfortunately, Vicki was unable to join us, but we could all tell she was keeping a eye on us.

Awe the Valley

Valley Live'n

Last weekend, I took an extra day due to the fact that I was working until Saturday night. After Warp Tech, a school fundraiser, Turtle and I headed down to the Valley for the first time since last November. Justin has just moved back to the ditch for work and it was great to see him and catch-up. As always, the valley was beautiful. Although the weather was a bit warm, I made a conscience attempt to do a little reconnaissance for future problems and projects. Before Mission I’m-lost-and-don’t-know-where-to-begin began, both Justin and Wick wanted to work on their respective goals. For Wick it is an obsession of Thriller that could plausibly cause his school grades to take a back seat until it is sent, while for Justin it is the goal of doing a new problem every time he heads out. The day’s choice was All Hands on Deck, a problem that requires nerves and the ability to perform circus tricks on command. For me the mission of the weekend was made easier due to the fact that Wick and Colton were down to explore the valley’s bouldering a little more. The discovery was Cathedral and two lines called Octagon and The King.

On a side note: I bought a new Giants hat under the sole condition that I keep it and wear it, without buying a new one, until the G-men win the pennant. It might take them a few years, but I felt that as my hat grows in comfort and shape the team would grow together in ability. Hum-Baby Go Giants!! And thank God Zito is out of the rotation!!!

-Peter, the Fan

A New Season

Here is to Late Night Sessions and Good Times

Sunday marked the beginning of a new season with a bbq and session on the wall. People came from far and wide to take part in the festivities. The glorious weather we had over the weekend was an inauspicious reminder that the Valley and Bishop are starting to get too hot for climbing. I have started to realize that summer time climbing is not the most ideal, but in many ways the most important. Last summer the time spent at Donor and on the wall, were the biggest contributors to the success of the fall and winter. Where as last summer I fell into summertime training with the guidance of Master Jedi Justin, this season I am making the conscious and “force” driven decision to use the next months to push new limits and train for those on the horizon.

Nasty Pete

The Flow

So I went to Bishop this weekend with two young ladies who were kind enough to let me tag along. This weekend was all about determination, mixed in with some physical sarcasm. The mornings started with a great tradition I hope to carry with me, espresso in bed!!!

Julie Turning the Lip on Sky Dance.

Vicki and Julie were my inspiration; both made progress on their perspective projects. Saturday we did the long hike up to the Druid Stones. On the way we met an awesome couple who were quite interested and taken aback by the fact that we were carrying up big pads of foam to the top of the steep hill. After explaining what they were for, I tried to gain a little sympathy by telling them they weighed 60-70 pounds, but of course, because she is tough. Vicki took the approach saying that they could not have been more than 15-20. Both Vicki and Julie continued the trend as they pushed themselves to gain more clarity in the solving of their problems, while losing enough skin to do a skin graft on my ass. It was DOPE!!!

Vicki Styling in Buttermilk Country

The awesome thing about working on projects is the spectrum of emotions one goes through in order to eventually achieve partial or total success. In many ways working on a problem is kind of like starting a new relationship. When an attraction speaks to you, the hardest thing to do is to be yourself. With people one has to trust that the person really just wants to find out who you really are; rather than for you to create a person who you think they want you to be. Similarly, when walking up to a boulder problem one has to allow oneself to come through, they have to trust that their physical and mental ability will “match-up.” When meeting a new interest it is easy to not trust enough to let it flow.

Let it Flow,
Peter

A Good Time

Despite Justin's injury, this trip has been total fun. Joe's has a ton of great lines to offer every climber. Kevin, Wick, and Ryan each made ascents of Nerve Extension, an explosive connection to the hard Big Joe. Yesterday, to catch the evening sun, Justin, Ryan, Turtle and I made our way to New Joe's. Justin and I did Spam, a fun little line; later Ryan and I did the classic Pocket Rocket. Although, I think I let Justin down because I was unable ( but unwilling if you ask him) to do the dyno problem static. I am tall, just not that tall.

Justin Staying Strong on Save Yourself.

The other day Kevin took us up to the Wills of Fire Boulder, where Justin fired both Call Him Jordan and Wills of Fire. This boulder is a perfect example as to why Joe's is such a special place. The rock is perfect to the touch and the eye.

Wick getting through the crux of Big Joe, and on into Nerve Connection.

Ryan avoiding the look of a beach whale, on the top of Save Yourself.

My dear friend Vicki told me that I must do the Angler. She was right. The line is perfect, up a sloping rail towards a beautiful emerald pond.




As the days pass, and our time slowly runs out I am rejuvenated for society, and more climbing.

The Rest of the Crew

Turtle

Bran

PS. Sorry, this post should have gone out three days ago, apperently Kevin only likes to save pictures of himself.

Kevin already has this one of himself on They Call Him Jordan.

Spring Break 2008

So I am back in Utah. The climbing is great and there is only a small percentage of snow left over from the trip back in December. The stone is awesome, beautiful and majestic. The climbing is inspiring. Like always when I come to a new area I feel so overwhelmed.  Usually, I follow people around to their projects in hopes of finding something that  gets me psyched. This is something that is easy to do here, in Joe's Valley,  all on one's own.  All you have to do is look left and right.  Today, Kevin showed the way to The Wind Blow.  This Ultra Classic is sweet, tempting, and  intimidating; but still it makes one want to be a better climber just to be able to feel worthy enough to climb it.  So far this spring break is off to a great start, more to come from Joe's!!

Wick standing under The Wind Below

Three Shots of Expresso

This weekend was awesome! As always the days started out at Schat’s with pastries and a large cup of joe (X 3 shots of espresso). I love waking-up in Bishop, the day is always filled with potential. Saturday morning the motivation was right to finally get me up to the Druid Stones. Justin, John, Turtle and I hiked the long path up the hill, out of town and away from the weekend crowds (that I have come to expect in Bishop). Upon arrival at the top, I was struck by how unique the area is. In addition, the stone yielded some amazing lines to try: The Arch Druid, Cayla, and Sky Dance. All should not be missed.

Colton on Integration

It was also good to see Kevin back in California. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to climb together but he’ll be there for awhile and I am sure to be heading down. Wick and Colton were also down for a long weekend, climbing hard and going after resends since the “2007 Reset.”

John on Integration

On Sunday, Justin and John each made quick sends of Vic’s riverbed problem, “Integration.” This has been the first season that I have spent any significant time on the East Side; and I have been lucky enough to spend some sessions with some veterans to area. It is energetic to climb with people who are inspired to climb for climbing sake, looking for new problems and redoing old classics.

-Nasty Pete

The Road

It is easy to forget how much I love my job with all the crap that goes on. Since the beginning of school I have been in a world-wind of newness and obscurity. The fact that my boss, who is fantastic, trusted me and my team teacher to completely change our curriculum has been a pressure-cooker. I don’t want it to fail. But more importantly I don’t want it to fail my kids. We have a lot riding on the change…young people’s lives. In addition I was asked to head up the student government, without think of the consequences to my life and climbing I said yes. I have spent the last nine months asking a lot of question, going to high school dances, and becoming the one person on staff that people run in the opposite direction to in the hall way for fear of being asked to help out. Basically, for the past six months I have truly been questioning my desire to teach. My search for answers has ended a relationship, made my family think that I belong in a loony-bin for taking my frustration out on them, and hurt my experiences on climbing trips.

It took a twelve day work week, a school project that just does not want to end, a student fight, and a six hour drive to Bishop to allow me to come to the realization that I love my job. The 27 hours I spent last weekend at school helping the Junior class raise money for prom at game-day was not only worth it, it was fun. In the eye of talking about TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD for eight straight weeks with freshmen, I have been utterly amazed at their capabilities to organize and plan groups of forty to write, direct, and produce a modern adaptation of the story for the stage. Essentially, demonstrating collaboration skills far beyond that of divide and conquer. Hot-diggitydog they could be learning something! Today after school four young ladies got into a brutal fight (I know what you are thinking, what kind of twisted mind would think this could ever be positive?). Although, every stupid within the moment, lets just say that it was the relationship between students and teachers that allowed the fight to end, and then be dealt with. Lesson, we are doing something right; relationships are the way to get to students. Relationships lead to relevance which will eventually lead to rigor, in other words who would want to due anything for a jackass. After the fight I eventually got into my car and headed to Bishop, there is something about a long and empty road that gets the thoughts bubbling in my head.

-Peter Newman, Teacher

The Beginning

This is my journal, something that I have been thinking about doing for that last few months. It could be a mistake, but at least it will have one reader, thanks mom. The goal of this blog is to simply give myself a forum to talk to myself about work, climbing and life. Will any of you care, probably not, oh well!!!

Kevin on Jingusbells.